I don’t know if you’re aware or not, but regular unleaded gas has reached the $4.00/gallon mark in the Kailua-Kona area and Kahului, Maui!  Not that its a bargain in Honolulu @$3.45/gal. or Hilo @$3.65/gal., but its just a psychological barrier when it hits $4.00.

Of course, even on the mainland, gas prices have pushed pass the $3.00/gallon mark in many places.  With Washington continuing to spend their way out of this economic slowdown and printing money to cover it all, inflation will be a big issue in 2011.

Fortunately, with the exception of the Big Island, you really don’t have far to drive to get around in Hawaii.  While the typical driver on the mainland may drive three-to-five- hundred miles a week, the typical driver in Hawaii may only cover half that.

On the Big Island, things are a little more spread out, so they may average 300 miles or more a week.

At any rate, you should be prepared for these higher prices at the gas pump!

First planting of Cacao beans in 1850

Chocolate from Hawaii began with the introduction of cacao beans to Hawaii happened in 1850, when German physician William Hillebrand brought the first plant to Foster Botanical Garden in Honolulu.   The first commercial crop of cacao beans was planted in Hilo in the early 1890’s.  World War I brought a shortage of chocolate and with higher prices, efforts were undertaken to expand the growing efforts.  The end of World War I, also brought back normal chocolate supplies and with it, declining prices for chocolate, and the end of chocolate from Hawaii.

No further attempt was made to commercially grow this crop until 1986, when once again, interest in growing cacao in Hawaii resurfaced.  By 1992, the first crop was planted at Hodge Farm in Keauhou.  In 1997, Hodge Farm bought by Bob and Pam Cooper and a processing plant was added to the orchard and Original Hawaiian Chocolate Factory was born.

The University of Hawaii’s College of Tropical Agriculture & Human Resources is deeply involved in the researching of identifying the ideal cacao plants that will do well in Hawaii.  So far, they have identified 11 varieties of cacao trees that possess traits favorable for growing in Hawaii.  The University of Hawaii rarely receives enough credit for the role it plays in helping to assess and cultivate produce that will do well for Hawaiian growers.

They have been instrumental in developing pineapples that are both appealing and hardy enough to thrive and survive shipping.  The same can be said of the papaya’s that are commonly found in Hawaii’s grocers and farmers’ markets.  What people don’t always fully appreciate is that the end product found in their grocer’s produce section may not be the best available, but rather a compromise between taste, color, and hardiness!

Chocolate from Hawaii Still In Its Infancy

Still in its infancy, there are currently just a handful of growers with a total of 50-to-100 acres growing the cacao trees.  A familiar name holds the lead role with 13,000 plants on 20 acres in Waialua, Oahu, is Dole Company.  Based on the University of Hawaii’s reports, the Agricultural Department estimates that there is potential of between 315 and 3000 acres that could be put into cacao production.

The problem facing Hawaii cacao farmers is the same that faced Hawaii coffee growers…low-cost competition from overseas.  The chocolate farmers may have the same solution as the coffee growers and that is to position themselves as a premium product which demands a premium price.  And, while they are a long way from establishing that market position, they are making strides towards it.

Chocolate from Hawaii…A Premium Product

Another step that would increase the money they can receive for their efforts is processing the cacao beans into “chocolate from Hawaii”.  Dried cacao seeds sell in the neighborhood of $2.47/lb.  Processed chocolate, on the other hand, retails for upwards of $40/lb.  Kaua’i farmer Koa Kahili began planting cacao seven years ago and harvesting his trees four years ago. Kahili’s Garden Island Chocolate sells for $8 to $9 per 2-ounce bar, that’s $64-72/lb!   “They sell out faster than I can make them,” he said.

The only major chocolate processing factory in Hawaii is the Original Hawaiian Chocolate Factory.  Since purchasing Hodge Farm , the Cooper’s have invested $1 million in the Original Hawaiian Chocolate Factory and have the capability to process up to 100,000 pounds of seeds annually.

A unique feature of chocolate from Hawaii is that just about every other chocolate in the world is made up of a blending of cacao from multiple regions.  Chocolate from Hawaii is made of 100% Hawaii grown cacao beans!

And, while the state Agricultural Department believes that opening another processing factory in Honolulu would help to foster the growth of this industry, Dole Company does not believe it would be economically feasible unless there is at least 300 acres of cacao.  This is not the first time that an attempt has been made to foster chocolate from Hawaii.

One earlier effort was made by former Chicago advertising executive Jim Walsh, who obtained backing from Hershey Chocolate Co. and moved to Hawaii in 1986 with a goal to establish the first commercial cacao farm in America.  But after years of work with varieties of cacao and initial success producing chocolate from Hawaii in 1994, crop losses led Walsh’s Hawaiian Vintage Chocolate Co. to substitute foreign-grown cocoa beans for Hawaii-grown beans in the late 1990s, and passed off the product as being chocolate from Hawaii.

A state Agriculture Department investigation led to the disclosure, which somewhat tarnished the image of chocolate from Hawaii, similar to what Kona coffee had to contend with.  Initial crop failures are a common occurrence in the history of Hawaii, from pineapple, to sugar cane, to tobacco, and coffee, so it should be no surprise that cacao faces the same initial setbacks.

Ultimately, finding suitable land to grow the cacao trees and willing people to invest the effort to grow them will determine the success or failure of the chocolate from Hawaii industry to thrive.  Whether it remains a cottage industry or becomes a major crop in Hawaii remains to be seen.  For the present, Hawaii will have to settle for being the only state in the United States to grow cacao beans commercially.  At any rate, chocolate from Hawaii is probably here to stay.

Hilo…lots of rain also means waterfalls

As promised in an earlier post, this post will discuss the Big Island town of Hilo, which retains the look and feel of downtown from 100 years ago, including many of the original buildings.

Hilo is known for being rainy all the time…it does get over 70″ of rain annually, which makes it the wettest city in the US.  What all this rain also brings is the lushness and greenery that people come to expect of a tropical paradise and in stark contrast to the much drier Kona side of the island, which is where all the resorts are.

Another benefit from all that rain are the waterfalls located on this side of the island.  Rainbow Falls is located about 5 minutes outside of downtown Hilo, along the Wailuku River.   Its easy to get to and the viewing area is a short 100 yards from the parking lot.

Rainbow Falls, 5 minutes away from downtown Hilo

If you head back to town and get on Bayfront Highway (aka Hwy 19), head north, and in about 10 miles, you will come to the turn off to 420′ Akaka Falls.

420′ Akaka Falls, Big Island

Back in Hilo, you may want to stop at Waialoa River State Park and see the 3rd statue of King Kamehameha the Great.  This statue was originally commissioned by the Princeville Corporation for placement at the Princeville Resort on Kauai.  Due to Kauai resident resistance, they ultimately gifted the statue to Hilo, which was his political center.

It seems that the residents of Kauai were upset because Kauai was the only island that was not conquered by King Kamehameha.   The king of Kauai, King Kaumualii, wanting to avoid all that comes from fighting what he could see would be a losing cause, came to terms with King Kamehameha and avoided all the unnecessary bloodshed.

(The most renown statue of King Kamehameha stands in Honolulu, across from Iolani Palace and the remaining statue stands in the town of Kapaa in the Kohala District of the Big Island.)

Any visitor to Hilo cannot help but notice the large park area located just south of the downtown area, fronting Hilo Bay.  At first, this seems like a waste of valuable land.  What visitors must understand is the reason this green area exists is because on April Fool’s day, 1946, a large tsunami hit Hilo and killed 146 people and destroyed 1300 homes!

And, if that wasn’t bad enough, 14 years later on May 19, 1960, another tsunami struck Hilo at 1:04 a.m. killing an additional 61 people.  It was agreed that they would not rebuild in that area and the green area was turned into a park dedicated to those who lost their lives.   There is an old style, city square type clock which stands in the park, forever stuck at 1:04 in memorial to them.

Cafe 100, located on Kilauea Ave, is considered to be the home of the popular “loco-moco”.  The original dish consisted of a bowl of rice, topped with a hamburger patty, a fried egg, and a generous heaping of brown gravy…a nutritionist’s nightmare meal.  The current menu offers a lot of variations, replacing the hamburger patty with Portuguese sausage, Spam, etc.

Speaking of food, stop at the Big Island Candies factory.  Along with a line of mouth-watering chocolate-dipped scotch-bread cookies and brownies, they also offer some uniquely Hawaiian snacks, found nowhere else.  Care to try some chocolate-covered ika (dried squid)?  (I have to admit, the chocolate-covered ika was not one of my personal favorites.)

Retailer Hilo Hattie had its humble beginnings here in Hilo.  Today, they have outlets in Honolulu, Maui, Kauai, and Kailua-Kona, but there flagship store in Hilo has closed.  It may come as a surprise to you, but they also have stores in Orange County, California; Tempe, Arizona; Miami, Florida; Las Vegas, Nevada and Orlando, Florida!  The store got its name from an entertainer who went by that moniker and who sold the marketing rights to this fledgling attire manufacturer before passing away.  Other than that, she never had any financial ties to the store itself.

The Merrie Monarch Festival

Hilo is host to the annual Merrie Monarch (Hula) Festival, held in late April.  This competition sells out quickly every year, so if you’re planning a trip to the Big Island around that time of the year, make your reservations early.  And, even if you don’t plan on attending, but will be on the Big Island at that time, you should know that rooms and car rentals are hard to come by.  Tickets go on sale the day after Christmas.

Add the fact that the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park lies just 30 minutes away versus the almost 2-hour drive from Kailua-Kona, and you can start to appreciate that maybe Hilo deserves consideration as a destination point, rather than just another pit-stop on your around-the-island run.

Newest Airline Fee

You’ve got to hand it to the airlines, they are the kings of creating new fees to  bolster their bottom lines and frustrate the traveling public.  Lets recap the airlines’ progression on assessing us with new fees:

• Baggage fee
• Europe’s budget carrier, Ryan Air, experimented with charging a “restroom fee”
• Do you remember when they wanted to charge us a convenience fee for buying tickets online?
• Premiere seating upgrade fee, paying for a few more inches of leg room
• Still a carrier or two charging a “carry-on luggage” fee
• Where you once tipped a skycap for assistance at curbside, baggage drop-offs, there is now a fee to do so!

And, now, three major carriers will be implementing an extra charge to NOT be in the center seat!   Delta Airlines, American Airlines, and United Airlines will be putting this new charge into affect in the coming days.  The fee?  About $50 more to get a window or aisle seat.

Why?  Because they can!

Government Regulations?

Its not enough that the airlines want to shrink the space per seat even further than they already have.  Attempts to stop this latest move in Congress have failed.  The airlines crying foul and charging Congress with a move back towards regulating the air travel industry.  I, for one, would not mind having some government oversight on an otherwise out of hand industry.

I do believe in free enterprise and letting the buying public have the final say in what it considers to be “too far”, but at some point, where common-sense is replaced by the bottom-line, I think something must be done.  It took an act of Congress, literally, to simply get the airlines to post the total cost of a ticket, rather than the deceptive piece meal way they were doing it.

It wasn’t that long ago that what-you-saw-was-not-what-you-paid.  Airlines would post a low, misleading price to purchase a ticket and when you clicked to select that ticket, the price would miraculously increase significantly as all the various fees were added in…landing fees, airport security fees, etc.   And, that brought us back to “what you see is what you pay” ticket pricing.  That is, it is until you start to add in all the “optional” fees.

You know, the optional checked baggage fee, the upgrade fees for such things as “economy-plus”, where they let you opt out of the space saver seats into what used to be regular seats for an additional charge.  This latest fee falls into the same category of fees, where you will pay NOT to be stuck in the middle seat.  (Didn’t USAirways experiment with the same thing several years ago, where they charged extra to get an aisle seat?)

What’s different this time?  This time, it isn’t just one airline’s experiment.  This time, it involves three of the largest carriers in the country.  This time, you may have to just plan on spending that extra $40-50 per leg fee…unless you don’t mind the center seat.

Unintended Side-Affect

Here’s one side affect that has not been mentioned anywhere that I’ve seen.  I believe that there will be families that will take the center seats to save money (multiply that $40 by 4 or more seats and it adds up, quickly).  Then, once on the plane, they will start asking passengers in the aisle or window seats, if they wouldn’t mind swapping so that they can sit together.

This can be a hard for the all but cold-hearted person to refuse, especially if it involves young children.

In the past, I have accommodated such families, but it usually meant swapping an aisle for an aisle seat or a window for a window seat.  In the future, I’m less likely to be amenable to such requests to swap my extra-cost window or aisle for a discounted center seat, just so a family who chose to split themselves up to save money, can sit together.  Likewise, when the flight attendants ask for volunteers to swap seats to help  families out that the airlines split up, I don’t think they’ll find too many volunteers who will downgrade to a center seat.

Just my thoughts.  Feel free to share your thoughts on the matter.

Recent Pahoa Volcanic Activity

The news/media seem to be overstating the impact of recent Hawaii volcanic activity.  I thought I would write this post to un-dramatize the recent volcanic activity and its impending impact.  While it is true the current lava flow is moving towards the village of Pahoa, located to the southeast of Hilo, and fairly unpredictable, there is little chance that the whole town is in jeopardy of being covered over.  The most likely impact would be to split the town in half.

I don’t mean to understate the seriousness of the situation, but due to the lay of the land…the topography, the lava is more likely to continue its unrelenting path to the coast, rather than expand wide enough to impact the entire town, as some news reports have stated.

Its also a very slow moving flow, usually advancing less than 50 yards a day, so residents of Pahoa have had ample warning and opportunity to move their belongings and find alternative living arrangements.  The temporary shelter set up by local authorities has had very few occupants as residents have found places to move to.  They understand that this is not like a hurricane or tornado where the impact is comparably immediate and you can assess your losses and move on.

Pahoa will continue to be under the threat of approaching lava for at least the next few months, if volcanic activity continues as it has for several years.  For those who may be planning a Hawaiian vacation which includes a visit to the Big Island of Hawaii, there will likely be no noticeable impact to your plans.

The largest majority of tourists base their stay in the Kailua-Kona area of the Big Island, which is on the opposite side of the island.  As a matter of fact, Pahoa is located off the main highway that circles the island, so most of the residents of the Big Island don’t feel any impact from this latest development either.  Very few locals and tourists alike ever take Highway 130 through the area affected.

If you are curious and want to keep up to date with the most recent developments, you can “Like” and Follow my Facebook page, My Hawaii Food Fun.  You can also “Like” and Follow Big Island Video News, who posts daily (and sometimes more frequently) updates and warnings issued by the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, the Hawaii County Civil Defense, and the U.S. Geological Service.

Lava Flow Caveats

Hawaii has passed Emergency laws which make looting a felony and also limits access to the affected areas.  What this also means is that curious people will not be permitted close to the lava flow.  The National Guard has been monitoring traffic in and out of the area, assisting local law enforcement.

Not surprisingly, these new laws are being tested and challenged.

While helicopters provide the best viewing of this latest lava activity, their access has also been limited for both safety and as a courtesy to residents still living in the area.  The helicopter tour companies have been very cooperative with local authorities in limiting their flights below 4000′.

Having said that, this is a serious situation, especially for those who have called Pahao home for years…if not generations.

Please send your thoughts and prayers to the residents of the Pahoa area!

Mahalo!

Mauna Kea Onizuka Visitor Center

Located at the 9200′ point on the slopes of 13,803′ Mauna Kea, the Onizuka Visitor Information Station makes for a great spot to acclimate to the altitude.  Altitude sickness is a real possibility for those who continue on to the summit and it is suggested that anyone planning on doing so, spend at least a half hour at the visitor center.

Caution: It is recommended that anyone who has gone scuba diving in the previous 24-hrs do not visit the Onizuka Visitor Center or go to the summit, as the bends is a real, potential hazard.  For a list of additional health hazards and precautions to take, visit www.ifa.hawaii.edu/info/vis/visiting-mauna-kea/health-and-safety-advisories.html.

On our recent visit to the Big Island, this was one of the few things on our “to-do list” that we haven’t done before.  The much maligned, but much improved Saddle-Road that runs between Hilo and Waimea (Kamuela) makes the drive from Hilo a pleasant one, even though your vehicle may do a lot of down-shifting as you go from near sea-level to over 9000′ in just over an hour.  [The drive takes about twice as long if you’re driving from the Kailua-Kona area.]  Once placed on the “do not go” list of car rental companies, it is no longer an obstacle.

The view alone would make taking this drive along the Saddle Road worthwhile, as you get a unique perspective of Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea from the valley (the “Saddle”) that is formed between them.  I would suggest leaving early enough to allow for at least a two-hour drive, if you’re leaving out of the Kailua-Kona area, to get to the Onizuka Visitor Center.  If you plan to go to the summit, allow a half hour acclimation period there, then another 15-20 minutes for the drive to the summit.

Then, on your way back down, stopping for the star-gazing program.  You’ll easily spend half an hour to a full hour gazing through the various telescopes that they have set up on the patio.

View of Mauna Kea from the Saddle Road

Looking back at the Onizuka Visitor Center

We got a late start and a longer stop at the Akatsuka Orchid Gardens than anticipated, so we did not get to do the summit on this visit…gives us something to look forward to on a future visit.  We got to the visitor center with 15 minutes till sunset and we did manage to climb a small hill nearby, which many do to get a beautiful view of the sun going down.  [Note: It gets dark and cold fairly quickly once the sun goes down, so a flashlight would be a good idea.]

Sunset from hill near the Onizuka Visitor Center

Love this shot of my kids and me on Mauna Kea

Me, at sunset on Mauna Kea

Nightly Star-Gazing Program

Temperatures dropped from the 50’sF to the mid- 40’sF and the breeze picked up after dark, as well.  There is a nightly star-gazing program hosted by volunteers who man telescopes on the patio of the Onizuka Visitor Center.  We got great looks at the moon and a crash course in constellation location and identification.  It is a very informative and entertaining presentation, although it is helpful if you are somewhat familiar with constellations to begin with.

It should be noted that the breeze naturally accelerates after sunset, so dress accordingly as you will definitely feel the wind-chill affect!  There isn’t a lot of refreshments available to keep you warm…i.e. no coffee!  They do have a pot of hot water and will sell you some instant hot cocoa mix for a dollar inside.  It helps raise funds to keep this operation going, not to mention give you something warm in your belly!

If you plan on visiting and seeing Mauna Kea up-close, allow for a stop at the Onizuka Visitors Center and it is always a good idea to get the latest weather update and check on road conditions.  Simply call, (808) 935-6268 for a recorded message on current conditions.

For more information on Mauna Kea, here are a few books to consider:

Ulalena

If you’re spending time on Maui and still have some energy left in you after a day full of sight-seeing, snorkeling, and shopping, you may want to plan an evening attending Maui’s premiere theatrical performance held at the Maui Theatre in Lahaina, called Ulalena.  For over 10-years, this first-class stage production has received rave reviews from everyone who has seen it.  This is not your typical luau dinner show, but a full blown, professional theatrical show that would hold its own in Vegas or Broadway!  But, this uniquely Hawaiian live performance can only be seen at the 680-seat Maui Theatre.

___________

Reviews

• “Voted ‘Best Way to Learn About Maui’” –Maui Magazine
• “It truly represents our oral history, which totally will entrance the viewer with
  the beauty of our past.” –Maui News Opinion, submitted by Hawaiian Cultural
  Advisor Charles Kauluwehi Maxwell Sr.
• “‘Ulalena, a show about Hawaiian mythology and history, proves there’s a life
  beyond the luau.” –Travel+Leisure Magazine
• “I go out of my way to not call ‘Ulalena (at Maui Theatre) a show. It’s theater.
  It’s art. It’s wonderful. ‘Ulalena is one of the most brilliant pieces of theater
  I’ve seen in Hawai‘i in more than 40 years.”
  –Honolulu Star Bulletin Columnist Dave Donnelly
• “There’s nothing like it in Hawai‘i.”- Frommer’s, Maui Edition
• “…we recommend seeing the ‘Ulalena show, a total departure from the often mindless
  “Hawaiian” productions aimed at tourists.” –The Boston Globe
• “…the buzz of the millennium and a yardstick by which future productions are
  measured.” –Honolulu Advertiser Entertainment Columnist Wayne Harada
• “…an evocative experience that often leaves the audience speechless. It is
  interactive, with dancers coming down the aisles, drummers and musicians in
  surprising corners, and mind-boggling stage and lighting effects that draw
  the audience in.” –Frommer’s
• “…’Ulalena has been bringing down the house.”
  –Conde Nast Traveler
• “Awarded ‘Best Show’ & ‘Best Attraction’”
  –Hawaii Visitors & Convention Bureau

Tickets for Ulalena are $59.99, $69.99 and $79.99.  The $79.99 VIP is for seating in the first 7-rows center or first 5-rows side wings and includes a 20-minute behind the scenes session with the cast.  Children 6-12 are $30 less per ticket.  https://www.mauitheatre.com/_

Given the theatre’s 8-channel, 20-speaker, state-of-the-art surround sound system, you may want to pass on the standard seats and spend the extra $10-20.  Speaking of sound systems, the Maui Theatre was designed specifically with this show in mind.  Special lighting and stage hydraulics add to the special efforts that went into giving audiences a great experience.

Performances of Ulalena are held Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and  Friday, starting at 5:00 pm.

While Mauna Kea tends to get all the headlines and notoriety as the tallest and most observatory riddled mountain in Hawaii (and the world), its sister peak across the valley should not be overlooked.  Mauna Loa is a scant 117′ shorter, but because of its long, gently sloping sides, is deceptive in its appearance.

Mauna Loa

And, while Mauna Kea sports more observatories than any single location in the world, Mauna Loa hosts only two.  A large portion of Mauna Loa is included within the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, which maintains two cabins available for use by hikers for up to 3-days.  Its on a first-come, first-served basis and you must pick up your free permits from the Park Headquarters no earlier than the day before.

A trail-head begins at the Mauna Loa Lookout on the southern flanks of the mountain at the 6,662′ point, less than 20 miles from the Park Headquarters.  From there, its a 7.5 mile hike to reach the Pu’u’ula’ula (Red Hill) Cabin at the 10,035′ mark.  It may not sound very far, but you should allow 7-8 hours to reach it.  Its a good place to spend the night acclimating yourself to the elevation and thereby lowering your risk of suffering from Accute Mountain Sickness, aka altitude sickness.

The second leg of the hike takes you 9.5 miles away to the aptly named, Mauna Loa Cabin.  You will have climbed 3215′ in elevation over that nine-and-a-half-mile and probably taken upwards of 11-hours doing so.  Remember, its a fairly challenging incline, add to that the fact you’re doing it at an elevation of 2 miles up while carrying your camping gear and food, and you can see why you won’t be setting any land speed records.

And, while the hike back should be easier since its all down-hill, it won’t be much faster as the elevation and loose footing on the lava rocks will not allow you to safely travel much faster.  Take your time and arrive back safely.  As you can see, if you’re going to make this outing, you should allow a minimum of 4-days/3-nights.  It is not for the faint of heart or for those not in good physical condition.

Here is a pdf formatted map of the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.

Alternatively, for those not quite up to a multi-day hiking/camping adventure, you could drive around to the other side of Mauna Loa along the Saddle Road that takes you up between Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea.  The Mauna Loa Observatory Road allows you to reach the 11,150′ mark in relative comfort and in just a few hours from either Kailua-Kona or Hilo.

You can then make the much shorter hike from the observatory to the Mauna Loa Cabin, however, you may want to allow additional time en-route to allow your body to adjust to the altitude rather than trying to go from sea-level to 13,000′ in a few short hours.   Remember, Accute Mountain Sickness, is a very real risk and can have serious consequences if ignored.

Here is a hiker’s journal from 2006 describing one hiker’s experiences along this alternative trek.  Included in his journal are some very nice pics of what you can expect to see.

A few precautionary notes should be made here.  First of all, even if you’re thinking of taking this on in the middle of summer, dress warm.  Hypothermia is a very real threat!  Temperatures on the top of Mauna Loa regularly dip into the 30’s and 40’sF, even during the summer.  During the winter, it is not unreasonable to expect snow.  Add to that the very real possibility of winds in the 25+ mph range and you should start to get the picture.

Take as much water as you can carry, wear protective boots…not just for the support, but also to protect you from the jagged edges of a’a lava rocks that abound.  Rain gear is also a must have…nothing worse than cold AND wet!